流利阅读 2019.4.6 That 70s show: why the disco decade is back in fashion

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That 70s show: why the disco decade is back in fashion
那场 70 年代风格的大秀：为什么属于迪斯科的那十年会重返时尚界

There is a logical, mathematical explanation for why the 70s have been pronounced chic by Paris fashion week. The 90s are the new 70s, you see, and the 70s are the new 50s. It goes like this. When the 70s were the recent past, they were cringe-makingly close to home, and therefore easy to poke fun at.
为什么 70 年代，会被巴黎时装周高调宣布为一个时髦别致的年代？关于这个问题，有一个符合逻辑和数学思维的解释。你看，90 年代其实就是新的 70 年代，而 70 年代其实就是新的 50 年代。背后的原理就是如此。当 70 年代时尚还是“不远的过去”时，它们尴尬到让人起鸡皮疙瘩，也因此，在当时很容易受到嘲笑。

Now, the 90s are the relatively recent past—and so 90s revivalism has become fashion’s go-to gag. The 70s, meanwhile, have slipped into rose-tinted memory, the embarrassing parts forgotten along the way. The decade is coming to stand for classic chic, in the way that the 50s previously did before being consigned to ancient history.
而现在，90 年代成为了那个相对而言“不远的过去”，也因此，90 年代复古潮变成了现在时尚界一说一个准的笑话。与此同时，关于 70 年代的回忆，则在不知不觉中染上了玫瑰色，尴尬的部分都遗忘在了流逝的时间中。这十年正渐渐成为经典时髦的象征，50 年代在成为历史之前，也曾是这样的象征。

The 70s became headline news in Paris this week because of Hedi Slimane at Céline. Instead of going back to Old Céline, he went to Old Old Céline—an ultra-bourgeois late-70s version of what ladylike looks like, with attitude and great wedge boots. And the fashion industry looked at the collection and thought: ‘That’s exactly what I want to wear.’
Céline（思琳）的设计师艾迪·斯理曼让 70 年代成为了本周巴黎的头条新闻。他没有让设计回到老的 Céline 风格，而是选择了更老的 Céline 风格——一个富有中产情调，70 年代末期版的淑女风设计，辅以自信的态度和伟大的坡跟靴。于是，整个时尚行业都看着这些时装，情不自禁地想到：“这正是我想要的穿搭。”

It is hard to avoid plundering the 70s when its influence is everywhere on the catwalk, which means the trickle-down effect from show to pavement was already well under way on the streets of Paris.
当 70 年代风格正在影响 T 台的每一个角落时，你很难避免“剽窃”这种风格。这就意味着从伸展台到人行道，这一时尚界的滴漏效应，早已出现在了巴黎的大街小巷。

So how did they wear it? Layered, mostly, and in a 70s palette of browns, greens and yellows. The art director Sofía Sanchez de Betak probably won the look. The thrown-together layering of tie, tweed blazer, trench and scarf in various shades of brown and grey was a direct reference to Annie Hall—bourgeois Manhattanite is something to aim for.
所以，巴黎街头的人到底是怎么穿成 70 年代风格的呢？大多都是叠穿，并且配色都是 70 年代穿搭中常见的颜色，各种棕色、绿色和黄色。美术指导索菲亚·桑切斯·德贝塔克可能赢得了这场穿搭比赛的桂冠。各种不同深浅的棕色和灰色的领带、毛呢短外套、风衣外套和围巾随意地堆叠，看起来有些不和谐。这一搭配直接参考了《安妮·霍尔》——生活在曼哈顿的中产阶级形象正是你需要达到的目标。

————— The Guardian：That 70s show: why the disco decade is back in fashion